How do you install wall lights without chasing cables?

Surface conduit, plug-in fittings, and battery-powered units each suit different situations. The right choice depends on whether you need mains-connected lighting or can accept a self-contained solution.

Surface conduit runs PVC trunking along the wall face to conceal the cable. It is the most professional mains-connected option where chasing is impractical — typically in solid stone walls, listed buildings, or rental properties. The trunking is fixed with adhesive or screws, painted to match the wall, and the cable is terminated at a standard backplate.

Plug-in wall lights connect to a standard 13A socket via a trailing lead, often concealed behind furniture or routed through a cable cover. These require no electrical work beyond plugging in, making them the fastest installation method. Many contemporary wall lights are designed specifically for plug-in use, with the flex integrated into the fitting's design.

Battery-powered and rechargeable LED wall lights need no cable at all. They fix directly to the wall with screws or adhesive pads and are charged via USB. Output is typically 200–400 lumens per fitting — sufficient for accent and bedside use, not for primary room lighting.

For any mains-connected installation, the HSE's guidance on electrical safety is clear: work on fixed wiring must comply with BS 7671 and, in most cases, be notified under Part P of the Building Regulations.

Surface conduit installation follows a straightforward sequence. Plan the cable route before ordering trunking — the most common sizes are 16x16mm for a single 1.5mm² twin-and-earth cable and 25x16mm if you are running two circuits.

The process:

• Identify the nearest spur point or junction box in the ceiling void or wall
• Mark the vertical drop to the intended backplate height — typically 1.5–1.8 metres from finished floor level for a bedside or corridor fitting
• Fix the trunking base with screws at 300mm centres into plugged holes, or with solvent-weld adhesive on smooth plaster
• Feed the cable through before clipping the trunking lid
• At the backplate, leave 150mm of cable for termination
• Fix the backplate over the trunking exit point so the trunking appears to terminate cleanly behind the fitting

Paint-grade trunking accepts standard emulsion and eggshell finishes. Two coats of the wall colour make surface conduit nearly invisible in most rooms. On textured or stone surfaces, use mini-trunking in a contrasting colour and treat it as an intentional design element rather than attempting to hide it.

All connections must be made in accessible enclosures — a standard 20mm knockout backbox recessed into the plaster, or a surface-mounted pattress box. Connections inside the trunking itself are not permitted under BS 7671.

A fused connection unit (FCU) fitted with a 3A fuse provides a clean, switched supply for a wall light from an existing ring main socket. The FCU is surface-mounted adjacent to the socket, connected with a short length of 2.5mm² twin-and-earth, and then feeds the wall light via 1.0mm² or 1.5mm² cable.

This approach is popular in bedrooms and living rooms where a socket already exists near the intended light position. The FCU can be switched or unswitched — choose a switched FCU so the light can be controlled without a separate wall switch.

Key points:

• The ring circuit must not already be at capacity — check with a qualified electrician if unsure
• The FCU must be accessible and not concealed behind fixed furniture
• Cable between the FCU and the fitting still needs to be surface-routed in conduit or trunking unless it is very short and concealed behind the fitting's backplate
• Part P notification is required if the work is in a kitchen, bathroom, or outdoors — in other rooms, a competent DIYer can carry out the work but must self-certify

For complex projects or listed buildings where routing options are genuinely constrained, consulting a qualified architect via the RIBA's homeowners directory can identify solutions that satisfy both Building Control and the planning authority before any work begins.

When cable arrives at the wall surface via conduit rather than from a chased channel, the backplate must be deep enough to contain the cable loop and any connectors. A 25mm surface pattress (also called a surface mount box) is the standard solution.

Most wall light backplates are designed to cover a standard 25mm or 35mm pattress. Check the fitting's backplate diameter against the pattress footprint — the pattress must sit entirely behind the backplate to remain hidden.

For fittings with a small backplate — some contemporary designs are as narrow as 80mm — use a circular 25mm surface pattress rather than a square one. Circular pattresses are available in 68mm and 86mm diameters.

Cable entry options on surface pattresses:

• Top entry: cable drops vertically from trunking above
• Side entry: cable enters horizontally from trunking routed along a skirting or dado rail
• Rear entry: only possible if the pattress is fixed over a small recess or existing hole

Terminate the cable inside the pattress using a 3-way lever connector block, not inside the fitting's own body. This keeps the fitting removable for bulb changes and maintenance without disturbing the wiring. Fix the pattress to the wall with two M3.5 screws into plugged holes, then mount the fitting's backplate over it using the manufacturer's supplied fixings.